皖美好味道過年的日子裡(皖美好味道過年的日子裡)
2023-05-21 10:28:59
點音頻,尋「年味」
小時候,盼著過年。過年了,有新衣服,有各種美食。
現在,同樣喜歡過年。親情與友情交織裡,流淌在心中是幸福。各種習俗、變著花樣的美食,成為過年的一種文化符號。
徽州滷拼 A Huizhou-style assorted cold dish
人們都說,吃在春節。因為過年了,有的是時間,有的是心情,各種特色美食在這時候層出不窮。
皖南是山區。各種農作物豐收後,人們就在農閒中等待過年。進入臘月就開始準備美食,家家戶戶忙著打豆腐、殺年豬,鞭炮聲此起彼伏。山中盛產的竹筍、木耳、香菇、蕨菜與魚肉進行著各種美味碰撞,烹調出千滋百味。農家土豬肉經過醃製,經過幾十天的冬日暖曬,配以山筍,樟木板上蒸熟,晶亮誘人,清香四溢。蟹黃燒餅、徽墨酥,則成為招待親朋好友的糕點。
製作歙縣三陽一品鍋(組圖)Shexian-style Sanyang Yipinguo hotpot in the making
過年時期,喜事也多,一品鍋成為績溪、歙縣等地大宴必上之菜,幾十口鍋擺在一起,呼啦呼啦聲,形成喜慶的大合唱。熱氣騰騰中,映著婦女、姑娘們的臉,幸福感十足的畫面。
安慶過年,少不了黃梅戲進村入鄉,美食也在各家各戶的飯桌上精彩亮相。胡玉美蠶豆醬燒出的魚肉格外香。雞湯泡炒米也是人們最有味道的記憶,燉煮的雞湯,香醇而不油膩,鐵鍋炒制的熟米,焦香、酥脆。熱雞湯泡上熟米。啊,回味悠長!山粉圓子燒肉已成為特色菜,五花肉燒至焦黃,下山芋粉做的圓子,配上作料,各種滋味交融,爽滑鮮香。
山粉圓子燒肉 Braised pork with balls made of sweet potato powder
People all say that the Spring Festival is a time to enjoy the best food. At that time we can have various kinds of delicacies.
The southern part of Anhui is a mountainous area. After harvesting crops, farmers wait for the Spring Festival in the slack season. Local people start to prepare food after the last month of the lunar year comes and every family will be busily engaged in making tofu and butchering pig for the festival. After salting and airing in the warm sun, the pork is steamed with bamboo shoots on a camphor wood chopping board. Then the fat meat is bright and translucent like crystal and the fragrance is alluring.
桐城老雞湯泡炒米 Country chicken soup with parched rice, Tongcheng style
Xiehuang Shaobing (a kind of stuffed and baked pancake in the size and color like a steamed crab) and Huimo Su (a kind of black colored, soft candy mainly made of black sesame in rectangle shape) are the best snacks to treat visiting relatives and friends during the festival.
People usually host happy events during the Spring Festival. Hu's Yipinguo, a kind of hotchpotch in a wok, is a must to be served at grand banquets. When several dozens of woks are arranged together, the cooking noise is like the resonance of a happy chorus.
金寨吊鍋 Jinzhai Diaoguo (a wok of food hanging over a stove)
合肥的美食似乎被老母雞湯、吳山貢鵝、泥鰍掛麵所代表。老合肥人則喜歡鹹鴨燒黃豆 ,用瓦罐慢慢煨,鹹鴨的幹香和黃豆獨特的味道融合在一起,且品且回味。
過年期間,如果遇上雪花飛舞,去金寨吃吊鍋,則是暖洋洋。各種菜餚在一起,炭火烹飪,邊吃邊聊,其樂融融。
吃羊肉去皖北。蕭縣屬溫帶季風氣候,兼有北方和南方的氣候特點,漫山散養的白山羊,羊肉風味獨特,也為廚房裡的靈感提供充足食材。將羊肉裝入魚肚子後封口烹製,成就了魚咬羊,也稱鮮燉鮮,成為飯桌上壓軸之菜。馬鞍山的霍裡羊糕,晶瑩剔透,切成片,蘸上麻油、辣椒、醬油等做成的調料,口齒留香。吃雞去淮北,地鍋雞是特色菜,鮮濃的湯汁包裹著雞肉,鍋周邊貼著色澤誘人的薄餅,色香味俱全 !
蕭縣羊肉湯 Xiaoxian-style lamb soup
過年,許多美食與文化和習俗交織相融。蕪湖的「八寶菜」是過年家家必備的一道菜餚,寓意安康、快樂;淮南家家戶戶都要掛上一串香腸,好像在說:看吧, 好日子又紅又長。
Old country chicken soup, Wushan Gong'e goose, and noodles with loach can be rated as typical Hefei delicacies. Yet senior Hefei residents prefer salted duck cooked with soybeans, which are usually simmered together in a crock. When the aroma of duck and the unique taste of soybeans blend together, they can produce a lasting aftertaste.
If it snows, we may go to Jinzhai to enjoy the warm hanging pot. Various food materials are cooked over a charcoal stove, eating while chatting there could be a very enjoyable experience.
蕭縣魚咬羊 Xiaoxian Yuyaoyang (stewed fish with mutton stuffed in its belly)
Want to eat mutton? Go to Wanbei (the north of Anhui). In Xiaoshan, you will see a great many free-range white goats in the mountain. The mutton produced there has a unique taste, which inspires chefs to invent more yummy dishes. For instance, Yuyaoyang (literally, fish biting mutton: the way to cook fish with mutton stuffed in its belly), also known as Xiandunxian (literally, tasty plus tasty) become the "grand finale" on the dining table. Ma'anshan's Huoli mutton cube is glittering and translucent. When it is cut into slices and dipped in sauce with condiments, it will leave a lasting flavor in your mouth.
Want to eat chicken? Go to Huaibei, Diguoji, or ground pot chicken, is a local special food. Chicken cubes in thick broth with attempting pancakes are really attractive and delicious!
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文字:程群
圖片:宋善忠 楊坤
音頻:範夢琪
編輯:吳承江
校對:劉 軍
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