歐陽修的八篇遊記（山河往事歐陽修與太守宴）

2023-04-15 12:00:07

太守宴，源於北宋文豪歐陽修的《醉翁亭記》。

醉翁亭 The Pavilion of the Drunken Old Man

宋朝是一個具有別樣魅力的朝代，尤其是北宋的文人官員，他們深諳「達則兼濟天下，窮則獨善其身」之理，官做得好，寬嚴有度的治政之外，超然灑脫，富有生活情趣。著名的《西園雅集圖》描繪了神宗元豐年間，王詵邀請蘇軾、黃庭堅、米芾等人的一場遊園聚會，類於蘭亭雅集。米芾為此圖作記云：「水石潺潺，風竹相吞，爐煙方嫋，草木自馨。人間清曠之樂，不過如此……」

歐陽修雕像 The bronze statue of Ouyang Xiu

歐陽修喜歡這種文人雅集，呼朋引伴，宴請賓客，聯詩鬥酒。年輕時「曾是洛陽花下客」，到了地僻民安的滁州，更是滿血復活。他為政寬簡，公幹之餘便優遊山水，訪古探奇，吟詩作文；也常與田夫野老為伴，以木石清音為伍，暢飲釀泉之酒，品嘗山餚野蔌，其樂陶陶。他主導修築醉翁亭、豐樂亭、醒心亭，開發山谷幽泉，手植梅樹、芍藥等佳木美草。醉翁亭如輕盈的飛鳥，凌於讓泉之上；豐樂亭位於豐山之谷，三面竹嶺環抱，其間有泉，泉上佳木蔥蘢。此兩處建築既為山行者遮陽擋雨，提供休憩，也是歐陽公觀賞山水、聚會宴飲之處。歐陽公的手植梅樹，歷風雨千載，依然吐香如故。每年三月，醉翁亭內這株「千年歐梅」驚豔綻放，老樹虯枝，繁花如雪，層層疊疊，那種「砌下落梅如雪亂，拂了一身還滿」的意境，傘一樣鋪滿庭院。

賞梅 Plum blossoms

「臨溪而漁，溪深而魚肥，釀泉為酒，泉香而酒洌，山餚野蔌，雜然而前陳者，太守宴也。」太守邀文友嘉賓、同僚下屬遊覽琅琊勝景，賓主溪澗逮魚摸蝦捉山蟹、山上林中採摘野果野蔌，或就地烹煮或借炊山野人家，大家圍席而坐，推杯換盞，吟詩作對，盛大的太守宴就開始了。太守宴中美酒美食，自然來自滁州本土原生態風物。滁州，江畔淮左，山清水秀，稻香魚肥，物產豐饒。今天的明光老酒，秦欄滷鵝、雷官板鴨、女山湖大閘蟹、管壩牛肉、池河梅白魚、爐橋橋尾、鳳陽釀豆腐、琅琊酥糖……不勝枚舉的美食，想來都是當年獨具特色的「山餚野蔌」吧。

野芳園 Yefang Garden

當然，歐陽修的太守宴不止於美酒佳餚，還有更重要的山水之趣、「醉」「樂」之意：有宴席邊滁人的遊賞之樂：「負者歌於途，行者休於樹，前者呼，後者應，傴僂提攜，往來而不絕者，滁人遊也」；有嘉賓僚屬的宴酣之樂：「非絲非竹，射者中，弈者勝，觥籌交錯，起坐而喧譁者，眾賓歡也」，沒有樂器伴奏，卻有山中禽鳥和鳴；沒有宮廷宴飲的奢華，卻有流觴曲水的雅趣，有猜拳射弈的歡暢；山水之間，廟堂近遠，醉翁亭中杯不空，這樣一場山林間的雅集，太守怎能不醉？「蒼顏白髮，頹然乎其間者，太守醉也。」醉於禽鳥山林之樂，醉於滁人宴遊之樂，醉於太守之樂其樂，與民同樂！

歐梅吐香 The plum tree planted by Ouyang Xiu

「醉翁之意不在酒」，歐陽公的快意中裹挾著的是對滁州山水小城鄉野民情的眷戀和沉醉；太守宴之「意」，是太守與滁人、嘉賓共享美酒、美食、美景的一場醉意山水、與民同樂的雅集之樂。

醉翁摩崖石刻 Stone inscription by Ouyang Xiu

「我亦且如常日醉，莫教弦管作離聲。」慶曆八年，歐陽修離開滁州赴揚州任太守，他將這種「太守之宴，與眾賓歡，與民同樂」的雅集之「醉」作了進一步的發揮。揚州至今還流傳著歐陽修坐花載月、風流宛在的典故。

深秀湖 Shenxiu Lake

今天的滁州歐陽公後人，根據《醉翁亭記》醉意山水、與民同樂的雅集之意，創造性發掘了滁州「太守宴」的美食文化意蘊，推出了「五彩豐樂、非絲非竹、風霜高潔、暮色琅琊」等詩情畫意的美食系列。這既是一種美食融於山水、人文的文化傳承，也是寄情山水、與民同樂的精神傳承吧。

The Prefect’s Banquet (Taishou Yan in Chinese) originated from The Pavilion of the Drunken Old Man by Ouyang Xiu, a much celebrated writer in the Song dynasty and prefect of Chuzhou when he wrote that piece of prose.

Ouyang Xiu often invited his literati friends to his parties, in which they would co-write poems and enjoy drinking. He did so after he was appointed prefect of Chuzhou, a remote yet peaceful city where he later lived a carefree life. In his spare time, he either indulged himself in the nature and wrote poems, or enjoyed delicious food and good wines with ordinary people. For their gatherings, three pavilions were built—the Pavilion of the Drunken Old Man, Fengle Pavilion, and Xingxin Pavilion. All have survived through history. The first pavilion is beside Rangquan Spring on Langya Mountain, and the second one is at the foot of Fengshan Mountain. Here visitors can not only take a rest during their trips, but also enjoy the beautiful scenery of mountain and spring. Besides building pavilions, Ouyang also relished planting flowers such as plum blossoms and peonies. The plum tree he planted in the Pavilion of theDrunken Old Man is still flourishing, putting forth snow-white blooms and presenting a poetic scene every March.

雨後流泉 Bubbling spring after raining

Several years later, Ouyang left Chuzhou to serve as prefect in Yangzhou, where he carried forward his banquet and continued sharing the pleasure of pastoral life with his people. The story of Ouyang’s fondness for landscape and wines are still told by Yangzhou’s people, and the Prefect’s Banquet also became a famous set meal in local cuisine.

Today Chuzhou people have revived the Prefect’s Banquet to offer a series of cuisine, such as 「Colorful Harvest」, 「A Pleasure Beyond Instruments」, 「Crisp Air and Light Frost」, and 「Langya Mountain at Sunset」. What they inherit, I suppose, is not only the culture of integrating food with landscape and people, but also the spirit of maintaining harmony with nature and sharing with others.

Tips

可自駕至滁州，或乘坐動車到全椒站後，換乘大巴車去滁州琅琊山景區。

自駕線路：

合肥市區 - 朝南京 / 安慶 / 蕪湖 / 包河大道方向，靠右進入合肥繞城高速 - 朝滁州 / 南京 /G40/G42 方向，靠左進入滬陝高速 - 從全椒 / 滁州出口離開靠右行駛 -S206- 豐樂大道 - 花園西路 - 西澗中路 - 觀景路 - 抵達琅琊山景區

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