百達翡麗超級複雜功能手錶（百達翡麗也做不鏽鋼手錶）

2023-10-04 12:52:23 1

本文由W&W專業腕錶測評網站出品

發條魚原創翻譯

Back in 2014, Patek Philippe announced that the Chronograph Annual Calendar 5960 watch would be newly available in steel, in a move that makes sense for a brand that wants to appeal to a younger customer base in an already self-selective buyer's market. Not particularly for pricing concerns, but precious metals make it pretty much impossible for a watch to feel 「sporty」 in any way, let alone such a complicated watch like the 5960. In 2017, they released this, the Patek Philippe 5960/1A Annual Calendar Chronograph watch with a black dial. The result is the natural progression of what the brand intended with their desire to capture a younger market, and in my opinion it’s an aesthetic improvement and refinement.

早在2014年，百達翡麗就宣布5960計時年曆腕錶的不鏽鋼款將於最近上市，百達翡麗想要在自主選擇手錶品牌的市場中吸引到更年輕的目標消費者，出不鏽鋼款也無可厚非了！ 不考慮價格因素，貴金屬手錶是很難做成運動風的，更不用說5960功能還那麼複雜！2017年，百達翡麗發布了這款「百達翡麗5960 / 1A」年曆計時腕錶，黑色錶盤。這是品牌想要抓年輕市場的自然進展，而且在我看來，這也是一個美學上的改進和完善。

The original 5960, released in 2006 was the first in-house chronograph produced by Patek so it’s not surprising that the brand would want to make sure they get these steel iterations just right in that it pleases collectors, enthusiasts, and of course, aspirational watch fans. The opaline/silver dial with black and red touches was a success but I don’t think I’m alone in preferring the newer black dial watch. Sporty, modern, and carrying an undoubtedly impressive movement, Patek has successfully created a lust worthy piece here for those of us who respect tradition without being burdened by the weight of dusty and unchanging style.

2006年發布的第一版5960是百達翡麗生產的第一款計時碼錶，百達翡麗是想確保這枚鋼款的發布能夠取悅那些手錶收藏家，愛表人士，當然還有狂熱的表迷。帶黑色和紅色時標刻度的銀色或者說乳白色錶盤設計還是很成功的，但我覺得我肯定不是唯一一個更喜歡這款黑色錶盤手錶的表友。更運動，更現代，並且搭載超凡機芯，百達成功為我們這種愛表人士打造出值得炫耀的手錶，尊重傳統，卻不會囿於一成不變。

The 40.5mm wide and 13.5mm thick polished stainless steel case houses the deep ebony black opaline dial that is fortunately legible as well as attractive. The applied white gold hour markers, red seconds and chronograph hands, and white aspects of the monocounter at 6 o』clock keep the dial from being overwhelming considering how much is going on with the Patek Philippe 5960/1A.

40.5毫米寬和13.5毫米厚的拋光不鏽鋼表殼搭配烏木黑瑩採錶盤，非常吸睛而且易讀時。考慮到5960/1A的動儲時間，白金時標和紅色秒針和6點鐘方向的同軸計時器讓錶盤看起來沒那麼超負荷。

Things are flipped around from the silver dialed model, with the date/day/month apertures, hour markers, and outer ring of the monopusher contrasting against the black dial and looking a lot more harmonious. Personally, I felt the black framing of the date/day/month apertures on the previous model looked too stark. I think the best way I can put it is that they almost felt like black eyes on the face of the dial, though that might sound a little harsher than I intend.The power reserve indicator right at 12 o』clock still bothers me and just looks awkward, though the functional purpose of the complication is hard to deny.

這款腕錶的顏色設計反差特別和諧，日期、星期、以及月份的顯示窗口、時標和12小時計時圈都是乳白色，與烏木黑的錶盤形成和諧對比。就我個人而言，我覺得第一款日期/日期/月份窗口的黑色框架看起來過於鮮明,就像錶盤上長出的三隻眼睛，當然這個說法有點誇張了。 12點鐘位置的的動力儲存顯示我覺得有點彆扭，看起來很笨拙，儘管是為了顯示複雜的功能。

Something I have to add is the fact that I'm usually not the biggest fan of five-link bracelets, and this preference remains unchanged here. Above you can see the white gold and blue dial 5960, which I actually quite like on the leather strap, but the bracelet on the steel model is just not doing it for me. It is done as refined and as well as one can be though .

我想要補充一點，個人不太喜歡五排鏈的不鏽鋼表鏈，在百達翡麗新款這裡也不例外。可以看到另外兩款白金和藍色的錶盤，我特別喜歡他們配備的皮錶帶，不鏽鋼表鏈確實不太適合我。不過表鏈的做工還是非常精緻的。

Seen from the caseback and adorned with a 21k gold rotor with the Patek Philippe seal, the in-house 28-520 IRM QA 24H movement is a mouthful, but a very impressive and significant one at that. Our David Bredan went into the movement when the previous steel model was introduced and I』ll repeat his summary of the movement here below:

再來看看表背，21k金打造中央自動盤上飾有百達翡麗標記，內部搭載的28-520 IRM QA 24H機芯是單向上弦，令人印象非常深刻。大衛·布雷丹（David Bredan）在介紹前作的不鏽鋼款時也提到裡這款機芯，我將在下面簡單介紹他對這一機芯的總結：

"The movement inside (and take a deep breath now) is the completely in-house manufactured CH 28-520 IRM QA 24. That translated into watch-terminology means that the movement comprises a flyback chronograph, an annual calendar, a power-reserve indication (for what the brand notes as anything between 45 and 55 hours, likely depending on for how long the chronograph is in operation), and also a day-night indication. Its base movement contains 302 components, while the clever (and only 2.48 mm thick) annual calendar module adds another 154 parts to that."

「這款機芯CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H（深呼吸準備好啦）完全是自主研發的。在手錶圈中就意味著這款機芯，包括一個飛返計時，年曆，動力儲備（至少45小時最多55小時，可能取決於計時碼錶的使用時間），以及晝夜顯示，其基礎機芯部分包含302個組件，更巧妙的是只有2.48 毫米厚的年曆模組構成了機芯另外的154個部分。

Price for the Patek Philippe 5960/1A Annual Calendar Chronograph in steel with black dial is unchanged at 45,000 CHF, which is just a hair over the same amount in US dollars. Considering this is the newer model, I haven’t seen many out there (although there are several white dial models available on the resale market). Time will tell if one or the other holds value better, but it will be interesting to see what Patek unveils next with their new products geared towards the younger market. patek.com

這款黑色錶盤的百達翡麗5960/1A複雜功能時計腕錶的價格為45,000瑞士法郎，人民幣384300元。考慮到這是最新的表款，我還沒見過幾個人佩戴（雖然在轉售市場上出現過幾款白色錶盤的表款）。時間會告訴我們，如果這幾款能夠有好的保值，那麼關注百達翡麗接下來將推出的面向年輕市場的新腕錶肯定會分非常有趣！

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